Uploading all those photos from Prague made me feel very nostalgic for one of the loveliest places I've ever lived. Granted, my time in Taiwan was deliriously giddy due to the great $$ I was making and exoticness of everyday life, but Prague is infused with an irrepressible beauty of the ages.

Things didn't start off well when we first moved to the City of Spires. My husband (then boyfriend) and I stupidly moved to Prague in January. As you may be aware, all those countries in the former Soviet Bloc are a tad cold in the winter. Now, I grew up in Boston, which is beastly in the winter. I never thought anything could be worse--but I was wrong. So very wrong.

We were coming almost straight from Taiwan, with only a one month interlude in Scotland between our two teaching ventures. The transition was brutal--from hot Taiwan to mild Scotland to bitterly cold Prague in under four weeks. We were woefully underdressed when we arrived--only winter coats but no scarves, hats, gloves or long underwear. The temperature was 10 degrees Farenheit / -10 Celcius and stayed that cold until the end of March. Boston, while it can get that cold, is not nearly so unrelenting. It heats up to just above freezing every few days. 10 / -10 may not mean much to you--just imagine the kind of cold, windy day where no matter how bundled up you are, if any inch of you is exposed, the rest of you is freezing. The kind of cold that makes your bones rattle and your eyes stream.

To top it off, we weren't making that much bread at first, and took a room with some other expats. One of our roomates was quite nice, but the couple in the other room were very strange. They were really nice when they interviewed us, but when we knocked on the door to move in, puffing from carrying our bags up four flights of stairs, the male half of the couple opened the door with the ominously unfriendly "Oh. It's you." and turned around and walked away, leaving the door open but otherwise not being particularly welcoming.

But despite the cold, the dearth of work and the salty roomates, Prague charmed us both. We both taught classes that required us to cross Old Town Square twice a week in order to get to them. Old Town Square (Starometski Namesti) is one of Prague's outstanding sights. It's about 1000 square feet, ringed on all sides with colorful examples of Prague's architecture. Even if you don't know your Baroque from your Sgraffito, the arrangement of buildings cannot fail to please. In the square is the Tower Clock with its little medieval puppets that circle through each hour--not that impressive to look at until you consider that the thing's been going strong for 600 years. There are two different old and ornate churches, an excellent exhibition center, and the excellent Franz Kafka bookstore. In the center of everything is an impressive monument to Jan Hus, the Czech Republic's Protestant hero and martyr.

Although Old Town Square is charming, I wouldn't recommend stopping here for a beer--you pay premium prices for the views.

So, we walked through Old Town in the winter, when the snow would fall gently and silently upon the empty square. If you ever go to Prague, there's a great Hostel--the Traveller's Hostel on Dlouha, which is literally two blocks from there. A friend of mine manages the place and I stayed there with my mom--I feel 100% certain that it's perfect for everyone...and so cheap!

When hubby and I first arrived, we would get out of our tension-filled apartment every day and explore the city. We'd eat cheap-and-delicious gyros from a little hole-in-the-wall spot at the bottom end of Wenceslas Square (Vaclavski Namesti) and walk around. Near Wenceslas Square is the excellent Mucha Museum--50% off for ISIC holders! (you know all those Art Nouveau posters you see in Paris--that style was started by the Czech artist Alfons Mucha--this musuem is excellent). Down the road from Wenceslas was the Powder Tower--one of the original gates to the city. Next to the Powder tower was the Municipal House, which is an opulent building that characterizes the Czech Revivalism style. We couldn't afford the tour when we first moved to Prague, but it's actually quite reasonable and, again, reduced for students with an ISIC card.

One thing I would recommend if you visit Prague is to visit the Cafe Louvre--also within walking distance of Wenceslas and Old Town Squares. It's a turn-of-the-century cafe with high ceilings, gold detailing and sherbert walls. Do me a favor and get the honeycake--this native dessert is the most delicious thing in the world, and there's nothing better than eating it in Prague's most atmospheric cafe.

Another reason hubby and I maintained some happiness in those first few cold months were because of Prague's cheap beer and cheap transport. You can get around the city and its outlying suburbs by bus, tram or metro for less than a dollar a day, 24 hours a day. Each stop is labeled to the minute when you can expect the next bus or tram. Subways run every 5- 10 minutes. So even if you were standing in the cold, you knew exactly how long you would have to wait.

And the beer! The Czech Republic is world reknowned for its delicious beer. If you can, get a few streets away from the major touristy areas to get your drinks. You can easily find delicious Gambrinus, Staropramen, Pilzner, Budvar or Krusovice for less than a $1 a pint. However, sometimes it's worth it to triple the price when you are whiling away the hours in Old Town or looking down over the city from the castle.

The Castle is another Czech gem. You can expect to spend about a day working your way through Old Town and Wenceslas, and I would recommend at least 1/2 if not a full day for the castle. What's great about the castle is you can wander a lot of the grounds and the front of St. Vitus' Cathedral for free. However, it is--like every other attraction in Prague--reduced admission for ISIC card holders, so I would still recommend the tour. I have done it both ways, and you really do get to see and learn a lot more on the tour.

I would recommend, also, taking the tram up to the castle and then walking down. It's a very steep climb up, but coming down it's a charming stroll throuh the picturesque Mala Strana neighborhood and then over the glorious Charles Bridge.

The weather warmed up and we started teaching a lot more classes, and were able to move into our own apartment. So I associate warmer weather in Prague with better circumstances. We had a little basement apartment with arched ceilings. What's great about living in Prague--or even if you just stay in a hostel for a few weeks--is that you never have to go far to get what you need. There are little groceries, bakeries, butchers, and pharmacies every few blocks. We loved the European life, picking up baguettes, then eggs and vegetables, then some cuts of fresh chicken as we walked home from work.

As the weather improves, the city blooms. Every park has a beer garden, and people sit for hours sipping fifty cent Pilzens while dogs run about and old men play Bocci. The beer gardens are all huge and always filled.

Prague has it all. It's gorgeous to look at, and despite an admittedly grumpy exterior, the people are affectionate and easy going after the spring thaw (I understand this, being from Boston. In the winter, you really don't want to stop and chat). It's easy and cheap to get around, and the city is crammed with discounts for students. You can spend an afternoon looking at an amazing Josef Sudek exhibition, learning about the effects of the Cold War at the Communism Museum, or amiably quaffing beers in one of Prague's many lovely parks.

There's so much more to the Czech Republic! Each little city and town has history, beauty, humor and beer just like Prague. I would highly recommend a visit--in the Spring or Fall is the best time for airfare, accommodation, weather, and avoiding tourists. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions!

cam@statravel.com / 617-576-4623