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Don't Worry Evita, Argentina isn't crying anymore.

on 6/15/07, KieraLeigh posted:
If ever there was a hidden gem in the world of travel, Argentina would be it. In one country (albeit a very large country), you can do everything from tour wineries to explore the rain forest...and for all your budget travelers, it is cheap and easy to get from point A to point B within the borders (though you have to accept less than luxurious accommodations at times!)

In June 2005, I hopped on my thirteen hour flight to Buenos Aires for the beginning of my six month adventure as a study abroad student. The expectation was, my time would be spent soaking up the Euro-South American culture in this foreign city, with little time spent elsewhere. I expected that money would root my stay within the city. Much to my surprise, and pleasure, travel throughout the country was relatively painless and inexpensive. It was more than music to my unemployed, college student ears!

Don't get me wrong...Buenos Aires is a fabulous city...I mean FAB-U-LOUS. But, like living in any fast-paced crowded city, you need a break sometimes. During my time away from Buenos Aires or BsAs, I traveled northwest to the desert, west to the wine country, and northeast to the rain forest. Yes, that's right...six months down there and I didn't see the whole place!

Most of my travel was done via omnibus. It is the cheapest means of transportation and you'd be surprised how much you can handle when the price is right. The longest trip lasted close to 17 hours which sounds like a Satan's joy ride but wasn't terrible. The trick is to leave late at night and travel during your sleeping hours. And always, always, ALWAYS book your bus trips on "coche-camas" - the seats fully recline with a leg rest which makes sleeping much more enjoyable. I'd also suggest aiming for a front row seat...though there is plenty of room even when the seats are fully reclined, there is something comforting in having no one in front of you (plus, you get a front row seat For the panoramic views of the landscape). Airfares are relatively inexpensive from BsAs to the regional airports, but traveler beware, the airport workers are infamously known to go on strike leaving you and your baggage sitting around the airport. Of course, this never happened to me OR my family while flying in Argentina...but I've heard stories.

My first trip out of the city was to the western region of Mendoza. It is a stones-throw away from Chile and boast of wineries and olive plantations, with some great ski resorts a few hours south of the city Mendoza - where we stayed. The trip was a short four days and I found myself wishing I could stay longer. We made the mistake of planning the entire trip (activities included) from BsAs. Argentina is definitely the kind of place made for spontaneous travel. The wine tour was a full-day trip including visits to three wineries and an olive farm. Mendoza primarily focuses on the production of red wines, though whites can be found at a few wineries. The smaller, family owned places will rarely have tours in English (sorry!) but the beauty far exceeds an understanding of how long the grapes are fermented. As long as you visit one of the larger wineries, you will get all the knowledge you need on how to make wine. And don't forget to try Argentina's specialty, a Malbec, while you are touring.
I never made it to a mountain for some snowboarding while I was down there...I KNOW, I'm still kicking myself for it. But a number of friends shredded the slopes and loved it. Local ski shops (we went to one in Mendoza but any will do) not only rent you skis and boots, but gloves, googles, ski clothes, ect. They may not be the most fashionable attire but who cares!? You are skiing on the Andes!
Traveler Tip: We planned our trip for the end of July which is the dead of winter for Argentina...great for skiing, not so great for the wine-country. Though, from what I understand, the ski slopes were busy, the city of Mendoza was like a sleeper-town. If you want peace and quiet this is a great time to go but, for us, it was a little too quiet.

My second trip was an eight day adventure in September to the northwest. There were stops in Jujuy, Salta, and Humahuaca. There is a ton to do in this region of the country including tropical forests, salt flats, and deserts. We started in Jujuy with a simple walking tour to get to know the city a bit. It's a small place with a lot of character. We stopped in a local travel agency the day we arrived to easily plan a tour through "Siete Colores" - the desert. The guided tour (our guide spoke both english and spanish), took us from Jujuy to Humahuaca with a number of stops (i think seven or eight) at small village markets, llama petting zoos, natural bridges, and ancient ruins. We chose to stay in Humahuaca which may not have been the best idea...the village is tiny, very tiny. So after a few hours we had explored the land twice over. But again, it was quiet and a nice change from the constant stimulation of BsAs. Back in Jujuy, we took another guided tour to Las Yungas - the subtropical jungle - for a day hike. The travel was slightly nerve-wracking, but it was what you should expect when traveling through jungle on a one (maybe 1.5) lane dirt road as you climb a mountain side. The scenery was incredible, even though we were in the dry season. And for a little excitement, I fell on the hike and got an unbelievable bump on my head with a slight concussion. My little accident left us racing (literally racing) along this cliff road to a tiny village in the mountains where the people spoke Guarani, not Spanish, but worked magic with cold knives and sugar-water? By the time we got back to Jujuy my head injury looked more like a baseball, and less like a melon.
My injury didn't stop us but did change our plans a bit. We hoped to take a horse-back riding tour of Salta but my inability to open my mouth without pain left us on yet another wine-tasting tour (what a shame!).
Sidenote: Though it may seem like the only thing to do in Argentina is drink wine, I must tell that activities while traveling are limitless. My trips only took me to see jungles, rain forests, and deserts but Argentina's landscapes also include beaches, plains, arctic glaciers, and salt flats. Plus, in the regions I did travel to, activities are endless and popular trips include rafting, horseback riding, and just about ever extreme sport you can think of!

My last trip lead me to the meeting point of Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay in Iguazu Falls National Park (in October). Its a waterfall like Niagara (times three thousands!). The park boasts of having over 3,000 falls that link the three countries. Of course, each country says they have the best views. I stayed on the Argentina side but with little negotiating and a lot of cajunas, you can have a local taxi driver take you to the Brazil side sans the hefty visa fee (it usually costs $500USD to enter Brazil as an American). This park is undoubtedly one place you must see in your lifetime.

I could go on for days about the city of BsAs but I will spare you all. There are a million things you SHOULD see while in the area but I will give a short list of things you HAVE to see.
1. Recoleta - This is one of the barios (neighborhoods) in BsAs. Most specifically, it is the cemetery where Evita is buried...or laid. See, cemeteries in BsAs are all mausoleums. The cemetery is like a little city, which is slightly bone-chilling. But the architecture of these structures is amazing.
2. Ferias Artesenales - These are like local craft fairs but so much better. All of the hand-crafter jewelry, clothing, and gifts you could ever want will be here. The city has more than a dozen every weekend but the biggest is surrounding the Recoleta cemetery. If there is a square, odds are there is going to be a fair there Saturday and Sunday.
3. La Boca - BsAs's Little Italy. This bario has a ton of history - it is the home of tango AND La Boca Juniors, Maradona's old team. It also has some great art vendors and incredible food. The bario is painted brightly and the streets are filled with tango shows. Just make sure to go during the day...the neighborhood is a little rough and gets a bit dangerous late at night.
4. Teatro Colon - The city's opera house gives tours of the building but also has an amazing line-up of ballets, operas, and symphonies. I saw a ballet and opera, both times my seats were in the nose-bleed section...but the experience was well worth the trek up 10 flights of stairs.
5. Nightlife- BsAs should probably be dubbed the city that never sleeps because when I went out, I literally did not sleep that night. Dance clubs and bars don't get hopping until well after midnight and don't die down until well after sunrise. So if you plan to really party like a PorteƱo, prepare yourself for a return home close to 5 or 6 AM (though it isn't unheard of to be out until 10 or noon!). It may seem overwhelming but it is something that needs to be experienced once. at least.
6. Tango - A trip to BsAs wouldn't be complete without some sort of tango. Of course, you could get that on the streets of La Boca but you could also pay to see a show during dinner at a number of places. I, personally, felt like once I saw tango I had seen enough. But, there is a great little club close to La Casa Rosada (the government house) that precedes its tango shows on Monday evenings with lessons!

There is so much more to tell but I have been long winded. There is so much to experience in this country, it may seem overwhelming. No matter what you choose to do, though, it won't be regretted.
I have hundreds of stories to tell so just ask! And don't forget to check out the local soccer matches...just be weary of which side you are sitting on! (they don't separate the opposing teams' fans with barbed wire for nothing!)

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