Having come from America, I was quite surprised by how large a cultural role cigarettes play in Irish culture. Of course I was coming with all the American stereotypes of the drunk Irishman, but you really miss out on the nuances until you get there. Because the Republic of Ireland recently banned smoking indoors, all of the smokers have moved outside and begun abandoning butts along the street. In America, smoking has been stigmatized a good deal in the past couple decades and it's often seen as offensive or uncouth in bars, restaurants and just on the street. In Ireland, the problem comes from the fact that their approach is exactly the opposite: smoking is so culturally accepted that smoke was becoming a logistical problem in many buildings. So the ban worked- I didn't see anyone smoking inside. But the consequence has been an explosion of discarded cigarettes along what are otherwise neat and charming streets.

There are two kinds of bars in Dublin: Locals bars and tourist bars. If you want to have any fun in Ireland, you need to understand the difference. Tourism is a relatively recent industry in Ireland, which up until around 1970 was not in good economic shape. So when you, an American tourist, waltz into a 100 year old bar full of men who have been drinking there since they turned 18 and likely earlier than that, you're violating a major cultural rule. You will be carded in these places even if you're 60 and look it. They aren't actually looking for you to prove your age, they're looking for you to go away. Despite the fact that the drinking age in Ireland is 18, they're going to tell you it's 21 and escort you out if you argue. So what is the difference?

Locals bars cater to a pre-dominantly older audience. Find the bars where Irish teens are going and you're in good shape. The actual 'Temple Bar' in the Temple Bar district of Dublin is usually so crowded it's actually difficult to move two feet past the door, so only check that place out if you want the full on chaotic carnival experience. The Punchbowl, also in Dublin, is a much better choice if you are around the age of 18. But be warned: if the bartender there feels like he's got a bunch of underage drinkers sneaking in, he'll ring the bell, which signals that the drinking age has been raised to 21. Crow's Nest Pub is another good choice. Pubs in Ireland are usually just as good for drinking as bars, but you miss out on a unique experience by skipping the barstool adventures.

The last thing you absolutely MUST be aware of is that it will be next to impossible to get a cab past 1:00 AM anywhere in Dublin or Cork. I got stuck in this jam myself. It seems like 1:00 - 2:00 AM is the point at which everyone who has been drinking decides to go home and cabs disappear quickly once that happens. Even if you get one, they are prohibitively expensive given exchange rates right now. Ireland's public transportation is at least as good as New York City's, so plan to either call it an early night or pick a bar near your hotel/hostel.