The next stop on our golden itinerary was the famous city of Prague, a locale known for its innumerable spires and fantastical architecture. After arriving in the late afternoon, we took a short walking tour at dusk, winding through the Old Town to admire the astronomical clock and old town hall and then have a drink in a local pub. Now, I’ve heard that Czechs say “Beer makes beautiful bodies” and consume more beer per capita than any other nation in the world (although Germany may dispute this); and, thanks to beer purity laws, it’s nearly impossible to wake up with a hangover after having Czech beer (note: I say NEARLY impossible). In fact, legend has it that Budweiser beer actually comes from an old Czech recipe for the beer Budvar! It seems an American fellow took a trip to Eastern Europe, dug the beer, and returned home with the recipe. Since he had the means to mass-produce and market the stuff, he passed it off as his own and went to work. Have the rights to the recipe been settled nowadays? Google it and let me know!

Anyway, some of the group relaxed with quality beer while others tried absinthe. Fret not, Mom (she's reading this, right?) -- the stuff is no longer allowed to be made with wormwood, so there were no visits by that infamous little green fairy. After that, we walked onward to the Charles Bridge to marvel at the city of Prague by night. The evening was made perfect by the glorious castle on the hill (illuminated thanks to the Rolling Stones and a television special in which they wanted the Prague castle as a backdrop), a terrific group of travelers, and interesting stories provided by our guide, as well as a bit of fresh air while promenading. Then it was on to a supercheesy five-story nightclub in the heart of the city (right next to the Charles Bridge!) to dance to the most random mix of music EVER on the oldies floor. The group got down to everything from fifties joints to the flamenco jams of the Gipsy Kings. Nice.

The next day we were free to explore the city at our own leisure, so I took some time to recline, just wandering about the city, having coffee in a hidden café (not to mention the cocunut ice cream that came in a coconut shell), and generally enjoying myself. Suddenly there arrived a freak thunderstorm, and I had to make my second “emergency umbrella” purchase of the week. It seems I have poor judgement, as I always take my umbrella out of my bag on the days I need it. Don’t worry, though – I’m not just walking around with three umbrellas in my bag. I promptly lost the newest one when I left it in the hotel lobby that very night. Solid performance.

Anyway, after getting caught in the electric summer storm and buying a new umbrella, I met up with the gang for a bite to eat. More pork, potatoes, and beer before calling it an evening and saying farewell to glorious Prague.

From Prague, we sped toward the beautiful and oft overlooked country of Poland. We arrived rather late in the day, and after a sufficient number of Topdeckers got lost taking the wrong bus into Krakow, we called it a night and rested up for a massive day ahead. The following morning it was up and out early in order to pay a somber and enlightening visit to the concentration camp of Birkenau-Auschwitz. Always a fan of history (particularly that of World War II), I was left without words for much of the day; for, touring the grounds and hearing our tour guide’s commentary on this place of such tremendous strife was both chilling and meaningful beyond description. It’s only through sharing and experiencing the past that we understand why we are where we are today, and for that reason, everyone should visit Birkenau-Auschwitz if given the opportunity.

After the sobering camp visit, we strolled into town to relax and take in the modern day. Some continued the day of learning with a Schindler’s Tour of the city while others chose to café hop, shop, or visit the markets. I spent my time wandering about in awe of the beautiful city center and wondering why more travelers don’t hit Poland in their journeys. It’s unbelievably lovely and metropolitan, that Krakow! I visited the open air markets that sold grand amounts of amber and ceramics, and I strolled through a festival that featured belly dancers and a power-walking tournament. Rock on. Upon grabbing some kebabs and heading back to the hotel, we stumbled upon a massive concert along the river that featured far too many out of place songs like “Red, Red Wine”…and I have to admit: the Polish people swaying and singing along was extremely entertaining. Something about that song and summertime just makes people want to jam.

All in all, a moving and exhilarating time