Dear Family,

I'm terribly sorry to break the news this way, but I don't know how else to tell you: I'm never coming home. I know you've provided everything I've ever needed in life, but Thailand beckons me with a call that I cannot (and do not wish to) break. Thus, I shall remain here until the end of time.

All my love,
Rachel

***

That's about how the letter will go. It'll be short and sweet – easier on all parties involved, don't you think? No, but seriously, Thailand is absolutely incredible. I haven't felt this impressed by and connected to a country in a long, long time, and I have no doubts you'd feel the same way. In fact, do you remember Hayley, the British girl I worked with at the conservation center in China? Before China, she traveled Thailand for 5 weeks with Intrepid Travel, and judging by the way she reminisced about the trip I'd bet she'll have trouble getting over her love for Thailand when committing herself in her next relationship. It happens...welcome the passion and beauty! I know I did.

Before I met up with my Intrepid tour in Chiang Mai, my Thai adventures began with some rejuvenation in Bangkok, made easier by copious tropical fruit shakes, rain washing away all stress as I ate in bungalow-esque restaurants, and shopping at the night market on Khao San Road. No matter what you hear about Bangkok being a big or busy city, you must know that it's very relaxed compared to other cities of its size. Relaxed enough that I felt at home, and for me that's really saying something!

After some R&R in Bangkok, I headed to Chiang Mai in northwest Thailand, settled into my hotel, and met up with a friend from my hometown of Dayton, Ohio! Whoa. Now, this guy's been in Thailand for 3 and a half years teaching English at the university, so he really knows Chiang Mai. I met some of his friends over coffee at the Chiang Mai institution of Wawee Coffee on Nimmanhaemin Road (known to many as Coffee Lane), and it was a blast. When in Chiang Mai, you must visit Nimmanhaemin since it borders the university and is an awesome spot to wander for cafes, boutiques, or the innumerable coffee shops (it's literally one after another). Don't go to Starbucks – that's where only tourists and rich Thais go. Instead, head to Wawee or a place that supports the local hill tribes by buying their crops. That, my friends, is what we call “responsible travel,” or travel that respects and gives back to the local people. Anyway, later the crew and I had some awesome vegetarian grub and then paid a visit the bars along Rasta Row, the spot where travelers and locals convene and people-watching is a must. After that, I grabbed a ride in what happens to be my favorite form of transportation so far: the tuk-tuk, or a little motorized cart that whizzes around the city with flashing lights and wind in one's hair. Fu-un.

The next morning, I met with my Intrepid Travel guide Deng and the 5 other travelers in my group, and we grabbed a ride in one of the city's many deep red taxis converted from an old pickup truck with the addition of a roof and some benches in the bed of the truck. I love Thai transport. We wound up through the mountains, observed the scenery and many signs of loyalty to the Buddha and the Thai royal family (man, they're beloved), and got to know each other (the others were a delightful mix: an Aussie couple, a Dutch guy, and two young English gals).

Then it was out of the car to visit Doi Suthep, a beautiful and renowned Buddhist temple situated on the mountaintop. We removed our shoes, made sure our shoulders, arms, and legs were covered out of respect for Thai culture, and wound through the complex in utter amazement. The place was chock-full of intricate tile work, dragons, spires, Buddha images, circumambulation (the walks of the pious which circle around statues or shrines), incredible artistry, golden towers, candles, prayer and devotion. We all made sure to point our toes away from the Buddha and keep our heads lower than Buddha and the monks, as in Thailand the foot is the lowliest part of the body and the head the highest, so one shows disrespect by undermining another with his/her feet or head in the wrong place. Before leaving, I made sure to get my fortune by kneeling to offer a prayer in one of the temple's many small annexes, then shaking a group of numbered sticks until one separated from the group. My fortune read simply: “The 26th number tells you that you are going to be lucky. Everything will be getting better and better.” Uhh, AWESOME. I didn't even know it was possible for things to get better than this summer...but, I'll gladly take that fortune :)

At the end of the day, we all met up again for a trip to the trek gear shop, then dinner in an open-air market to eat awesome pad thai and witness traditional dance and music on stage. The dancers swirled about with candles and elegant hand movements as intensely-colored clothing laced with gold moved about them like water, and children watched on with bobbing heads and mimicked motions. Then the group took a spin through the night market to buy comfy cotton shirts, cool wall-hangings, and tribal jewelry before getting some pre-trek sleep.